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20 Jul 2016

Everything you need to know for a lazy weekend in Dartmouth, Devon

Hi there pals, how’s it going? I’m writing this SAT OUTSIDE. Like, sure, I’m wearing a thick pair of socks (can you tell I wrote this before this melting-level heatwave hit?) but who even cares? It’s July and finally warm enough to sit on the terrace with my laptop and pretend I’m like a writer in a film. Rather than a writer who has spent the past few hours trying to make a dent in the huge pile of dirty washing we seem to have acquired and despairing over the fact that I have definitely managed to work my way through three quarters of a jumbo pack of chocolate digestives in less than a week. Ain’t life so glam?

So, yeah. Dartmouth. A cute little town in Devon that you need to be checking out asap. My rents looooove this place. Like they have a flat there and everything. Pretty sure getting a second home is how you know you’ve made it in life.

Here’s a little guide of things to be doing, based on my knowledge built up over several visits.

Boat trip from Totnes

So, if you’re not driving, the best way to get to Dartmouth is to get a train to Totnes which is around 3 hours from London Paddington (unless you get caught up in a bants derailment crisis and somehow end up in Winchester – more here). Totnes is about 12 miles from Dartmouth and it will cost you around £30 in a taxi. OR you could wander down to the water and get a boat there. There are loads of different boat trips between Totnes and Dartmouth, some of which will probably take you straight there. But the one time I made the effort to go get a boat, my best pal and I got one that took you on a two hour trip, giving you a load of local history and just generally letting you chill on the top deck of the boat with the sun on your face and breeze in your hair. We got super lucky cos the weather was an utter babe so it was one dreamy experience. But even if the weather isn’t so great, it’s different and fun, and cheaper to get the boat. Also takes you right into Dartmouth’s harbour so boom, you’re in the centre of town straight away.

Brunch at Alf's

Where everyone goes for brunch. And I do mean everyone. The entire of bloody Devonshire likes to queue outside of this place, particularly at the weekend. So go on a weekday pals. This was always my favourite place to brunch in Dartmouth, but this time around I did go and check out Bayard’s Cove Inn and their smoked salmon was so babin’ that my loyalties are now confused. But I’ll still recommend Alf’s to anyone. It’s quirky and rustic and has a everyone-and-anyone vibe going on. The banana milkshakes are on point as well *insert circular fingers emoji*.

Bayard's Cove Inn

Like I said, this place made me question things. Like maybe Alf’s wasn’t the best place for brunch and lunch. Cos I had both at Bayard’s Cove Inn and oh maaaan, so good. The smoked salmon really was the best thing I have ever given my taste buds. But go try both and judge for yourself.

Walk to Blackpool Sands

Okay so you could just drive the few miles down the road, or get the 15 minute bus but if you wanna feel like you’re walking off that 7th cream tea (hey, I ain’t judging) and see some pretty babin’ views, then I’d suggest walking the coastal route.

I will admit that the first time G and I walked this route, we might have taken a bit of a detour along some rocks which you definitely could not walk along and might  have had to have retraced our steps and might have forgotten to bring any kind of water so were majorly dehydrated and were all like is this how we die or...? So yeah, take water. And stick to the map.

The walk takes about two hours and, just FYI, there is a hill about half way that’s steeper than freakin’ Everest and will make you all kinds of attractive sweatiness.

Those coastal views though. Definitely enough to make you want to go live on the edge of a cliff and buy your own boat and be like what is this London you speak of? And walking down the hill with the view of all of Blackpool Sands is just the one. In my opinion, Blackpool Sands is one of the most beautiful beaches ever; it’s just this dreamy, tropical-like beaut. Although, it’s not actually sand. Soz. Cakes full of all kinds of gooey goodness in the cafe though.


For an intimate, candlelit dinner; this is the place. Full of fresh, local produce; it’s the kind of place where they bring you warm bread without you even asking. Isn’t this basically what we all aim for in life? I used to think this place was quite pricey but then, lol, started spending all my life in London. The entire front of the restaurant is made up of a big circular window which overlooks the harbour and you can walk back along the front and pretend you’re in some kind of romantic film (rather than waddling back clutching your food baby).

The Floating Bridge

A pub/restaurant if you’re looking for a more chilled one. There’s a seating area out the front which is practically on the water. You can watch all the boats bobbing around, the ferry going back and forth, the steam train chugging by, and make friends with ducks.

Hashtag life goals.

There’s also a dreamy rooftop terrace that catches the evening sun, and they do the best fish n chips in Dartmouth. Just FYI, get the small fish. Medium is generous even for a food lover like me and the large will basically be like your very own woman vs food episode.

The Castle 

A bit closer to home is the castle which sits right on the edge before the land just dramatically drops into the sea. It’s easy to find from the centre of town; just follow the signs. I’ve never been that fussed about going inside but the castle looks cute sat guarding the harbour entrance and you can sit outside the cafe, drinking wine and looking out at the horizon. Not too shabby eh?

Sugary Cove 

If you continue up the path from the castle and round the coast a lil bit (only a few minutes walk), you’ll come to Sugary Cove which is basically a secret little cove straight outta Poldark or summat. You gotta go down some steep, crumbling steps (and yes, that does mean you’ve got to walk up them again) but more often than not, you get the little beach to yourself. You’re welcome.

A chilled evening in

Because these babies important. You’ll need supplies so hit up The Deli at Dartmouth for a cheese counter full of dreams, chutneys, snazzy crackers... no you’re so middle class.


Dartmouth is pretty as hell. Just go wandering for a while. There's cute shops and cafes on every corner, and even a little cinema. Also there’s a steam train that goes back and forth on the other side of the water and it defs looks like The Hogwarts Express. Just hitting you up with Harry Potter spots cos every place should have one.
My favourite mooch spot is walking/sitting along the front - particularly in the evening when it's gone all quiet. Dartmouth definitely has a Mediterranean feel to it and along the front is prime time to gaze at the pretty colourful house built into the hillside and imagine you're on a Greek island.

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